Okey dokey here goes
So crack in the same spot as everyone elses, on the passenger side, sorry i didnt get any pics. All fibreglass supplys from East coast fibre glass supplies
1. To add insult to injury Mercedes lined the roof with a backed vinyl, this is a swine to get off and the worst part of the job, any new fibre glass will not adhere to this coating, it has to come off, i took about 400mm off, 250mm toward the front and 150mm toward the rear, figuring its the front that needs more support, go up to the top of the curve. I cut it straight down and across with a craft knife then managed to get the effected area off with a fairly sharp flat blade screwdriver, this will take a while. Be warned theres the shiny vinyl bit then a layer underneath, some came off in a one'er but a lot didnt. I used a 40 grit emery flapper wheel in a cordless drill for the final clean up, you have to get back to fibreglass for the epoxy to do its job.
2. You need a decent epoxy resin i used West systems 105 epoxy with the 205 hardener. 1kg was more than enough. Read the instructions then read again. Fibre glass matting was 300g chopped strand and then woven roving, cut these to size, get some epoxy into the crack then chock the roof front and back to close the crack, make sure its not going to move as its all going to be in situ for 48 hours
3. I thinkened the epoxy with colloidal silica (west systems) as you are working on a vertical surface so dont want the epoxy to run off, dont go mad it doesnt need to be to thick. Get a massive sheet of polythene on the side of the van and pop up roof fabric as once you get going its messy.
4. Using a resin brush, get a thick coat on the inside then your 1st layer has to be the chopped strand, apply more resin until wetted through, next layer is woven roving for additional strength, then repeat, i used 6 layers but 4 is probably enough, each layer has to be thorougherly wetted out, let it go off for maybe an hour then trim off all the excess glass cloth with a very sharp knife without disturbing the glass. I used one of the consolidation rollers when applying the matting to make sure everything is sat down nice.
5. Now resist the temptation to do anything else for at least 48 hours this is how long it takes to get to a load test strength. Do not touch a godam thing just let the van sit there to reflect on a) its poor behavior and b) to harden properly.
6. Key parts to this repair is the prep, you have to get all the vinyl crap off as the epoxy needs to be onto fibreglass, i cant stress this enough, use a mirror if you cant see properly. The bond between the roof and your first layer of glass will be the weakest link so it needs to be right. If you have never used fibreglass and resin before get some scrap plywood and have a go fibreglassing a 150mm square on it to get a feel for handling this stuff, watch some Youtube videos, wear latex gloves, read the instructions, dont be tempted to use the cheap Halfords glass kits, epoxy resin is the most expensive but also the strongest.
7. I cycled the roof up and down about 20 times (its the final locking part that puts the strain on it) i'm going to get a bit of use out of it in various conditions before i take it to my local body shop to fill and respray just the side, should be no more than £200, cost of resin and bits and bobs £100.
8. If you dont fancy this job i would suggest using someone who repairs boats rather than a body shop. They will have more experience with this type of repair. The body shop will do the final respray.
If anyone needs any further advise let me know
Paul