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Kitchen tap not working

Mary, again they are pretty easy to replace.
Have a look at this video to see where the fresh water tank is placed. Try and put your hand in and give the pump some taps / bangs.
I've had success removing it and placing it in anti-calcium product over night.
 
I take it that when you switch the shower on or open the tap that there is no sound?

It does sound like the pump has stuck or has no power.

embarrassed to ask this but I take it the water tank has plenty of water in it?!
(sorry)
 
Morning, Thanks for your reply, no sound and yes its three quarters full!!
Air block somewhere? Not sure if it’s possible to blow air through the system perhaps?

Apols for the basic questions, just trying to help.
 
Thanks Chaps, great to know you’re there!! Turned out it was the fuse after all!! Our van is French and the manual is French hence not understanding which lights to check to see if fuse OK!! Finally we got there - at least we have a new tap, seen the inside of the water tank and learnt more about our lovely MP. Happy camping, Mary
 
You know what isn’t it nice when a poster comes back and verifies their fix, thanks Mary.

some come on here, people give their best advice and disappear. There was one a few weeks back about the roof/ leisure battery. Completely went silent. It’s very frustrating.

So glad you’re now sorted. Happy camping!
 
Just to add something about the microswitch on the tap.

I have managed to replace it! It’s fiddly to replace certainly do it if you’re good with your hands. A good plumber should be able to do it for you otherwise. It took me about an hour to do.

You will need a T8 TX small Allen key. They are the ones with the star shaped heads.

Firstly, the shower WAS working. This proved the pump was okay, and it was the microswitch that was faulty.

This is my tap on 2018, Marco Polo.

The above leisure shop direct do not seem to have the correct microswitch linked to the tap. The one below is the one you want unless buying the whole tap.

This is the microswitch that worked on my tap. It’s Worth removing the tap head to see if it looks the same it’s a green headed switch with a spring loaded contact on top. There is a version without the spring which will not work. As the spring is effectively the off switch.


The part number for the microswitch I used is 240–0622WSK2.

And it’s a ceramic style tap, but I think modified to be used as a cold tap on the Marco Polo. If you’re going to buy a whole new tap online, you may have to carry out the same modification to get it to work so keep the old tap to use the bits.

If you have a different tap, then this may not apply to you, it would only work for the above tap.

It’s a reich keramik tap.

It has been adapted presumably by Westfalia to run as a cold tap.

When replacing the micro switch, you have to make sure you use the components in the original tap. It’s quite fiddly.

This is how it’s done.

To remove the tap first, remove the cutlery drawer and drawer next to the cutlery drawer by pulling the small taps which are on the runners. The drawers should slide out easily then.

Now remove the 10amp fuse From the fuse box underneath the fridge. Do you have to slide the Passenger seats forward to do this. Which is the one that runs the pump? Underneath The hub, you should find the electrical connector for the microswitch which can be pulled apart and unwound from the water pipe. I wasn’t able to remove the spade connectors from the fitting. So instead, I cut the wires and reconnected The new microswitch using small, conventional, screw down electrical fittings Available at any hardware shop.
Once you’ve Unwound the wiring and cut the cable. It’s worth cutting the cable closer to the tap, then you have a little bit More wire spare To reconnect when you’ve fitted the new switch.

Now loosen the Jubilee Clip which holds the water hose In place. You have to loosen it quite a lot to allow the hose to be pulled off the bottom of the tap. Leave the Jubilee clip on the hose to make it easier to refit. So now you should have A black and brown wire and a disconnected water hose. Now remove the Black nut nut which holds the tap in place and the tap should just lift out.

Now, remove the little chrome cover in the middle of the Handle this can be done with a small screwdriver, or the end of a sharp knife. Now you can remove the Hex Allen key, which allows you to see the workings of the lever Underneath.

You will now need a Small T8 (TX) star shaped Allen key to remove the three long bolts which hold the tap mechanism together. It will not work with a conventional Allen key so don’t bother trying.

Once you’ve removed the three bolts, the mechanism will slide out of the housing. This consists of the on off valve for the tap. ,a retaining ring and two blue inserts which hold the retaining ring in place. It’s worth having a good look at it before you remove everything. The on off cartridge/valve has three holes, one for hot, not used one for cold and then the larger hole which is the flow which goes to the tap head. This needs to go back the same way around that it came out.

You should be able to see the impression of the holes when you look inside the tap. So there are two small holes and one large one.

You should now be able to remove the old faulty microswitch and wire. note where it goes. The micro switch works in a reverse way to the way you might Think. When the tap is pulled towards you the switch is engaged in the off position so the spring contact pushes against the switch.
It’s then off. When you pull the the tap handle, the contact on the switch is released and the tap/pump turns on.

So the body of the switch, which sits inside the head of the tap with the spring up against the body of the tap.
The switch spring mechanism presses against the body of the tap in the off position.

So feed the new wires of the new switch through the little hole at the bottom of the tap where the old ones were. Then the switch needs to be pushed through the housing which holds the valve/Cartridge in place. The cartridge, then needs to be pushed back into place. No, the two holes match off the two small holes on the tap body.

The fixing ring, then needs to be put over the top of the cartridge, keeping the wires, surprisingly short as they will need to fit inside the tap head. There is a lug on the ring which goes towards the bottom of the tap.

The two blue inserts can then be pushed into place evenly around the inserted housing. You should be able to then put the three screws back into place. The screws will need a little push With the Allen key to get them down past the top of the fittings. Then you should be able to screw them down and should look as you found it when you first took it apart.

Then refitting the tap is the reverse of removal. It’s a little difficult to get the back nut back on as the rigid feed pipe gets in the way. But wiggle it about and persevere. It can be done.

Make sure you screw up the Jubilee clip very tight as you wouldn’t want water to come out when you turn the tap on.

Then reconnect the brown to the brown and the black to the black Wire. Put the fuse back in. And test the tap.

Check for leaks from the hose and tighten the Jubilee clip if needed.


My next thing for me to do is replace my thermostat on the fridge as the fridge is freezing everything on the lowest setting.

Good luck with the above if you choose to do it yourself.

It would be worth reading this a few times before starting!
 
Just to add something about the microswitch on the tap.

I have managed to replace it! It’s fiddly to replace certainly do it if you’re good with your hands. A good plumber should be able to do it for you otherwise. It took me about an hour to do.

You will need a T8 TX small Allen key. They are the ones with the star shaped heads.

Firstly, the shower WAS working. This proved the pump was okay, and it was the microswitch that was faulty.

This is my tap on 2018, Marco Polo.

The above leisure shop direct do not seem to have the correct microswitch linked to the tap. The one below is the one you want unless buying the whole tap.

This is the microswitch that worked on my tap. It’s Worth removing the tap head to see if it looks the same it’s a green headed switch with a spring loaded contact on top. There is a version without the spring which will not work. As the spring is effectively the off switch.


The part number for the microswitch I used is 240–0622WSK2.

And it’s a ceramic style tap, but I think modified to be used as a cold tap on the Marco Polo. If you’re going to buy a whole new tap online, you may have to carry out the same modification to get it to work so keep the old tap to use the bits.

If you have a different tap, then this may not apply to you, it would only work for the above tap.

It’s a reich keramik tap.

It has been adapted presumably by Westfalia to run as a cold tap.

When replacing the micro switch, you have to make sure you use the components in the original tap. It’s quite fiddly.

This is how it’s done.

To remove the tap first, remove the cutlery drawer and drawer next to the cutlery drawer by pulling the small taps which are on the runners. The drawers should slide out easily then.

Now remove the 10amp fuse From the fuse box underneath the fridge. Do you have to slide the Passenger seats forward to do this. Which is the one that runs the pump? Underneath The hub, you should find the electrical connector for the microswitch which can be pulled apart and unwound from the water pipe. I wasn’t able to remove the spade connectors from the fitting. So instead, I cut the wires and reconnected The new microswitch using small, conventional, screw down electrical fittings Available at any hardware shop.
Once you’ve Unwound the wiring and cut the cable. It’s worth cutting the cable closer to the tap, then you have a little bit More wire spare To reconnect when you’ve fitted the new switch.

Now loosen the Jubilee Clip which holds the water hose In place. You have to loosen it quite a lot to allow the hose to be pulled off the bottom of the tap. Leave the Jubilee clip on the hose to make it easier to refit. So now you should have A black and brown wire and a disconnected water hose. Now remove the Black nut nut which holds the tap in place and the tap should just lift out.

Now, remove the little chrome cover in the middle of the Handle this can be done with a small screwdriver, or the end of a sharp knife. Now you can remove the Hex Allen key, which allows you to see the workings of the lever Underneath.

You will now need a Small T8 (TX) star shaped Allen key to remove the three long bolts which hold the tap mechanism together. It will not work with a conventional Allen key so don’t bother trying.

Once you’ve removed the three bolts, the mechanism will slide out of the housing. This consists of the on off valve for the tap. ,a retaining ring and two blue inserts which hold the retaining ring in place. It’s worth having a good look at it before you remove everything. The on off cartridge/valve has three holes, one for hot, not used one for cold and then the larger hole which is the flow which goes to the tap head. This needs to go back the same way around that it came out.

You should be able to see the impression of the holes when you look inside the tap. So there are two small holes and one large one.

You should now be able to remove the old faulty microswitch and wire. note where it goes. The micro switch works in a reverse way to the way you might Think. When the tap is pulled towards you the switch is engaged in the off position so the spring contact pushes against the switch.
It’s then off. When you pull the the tap handle, the contact on the switch is released and the tap/pump turns on.

So the body of the switch, which sits inside the head of the tap with the spring up against the body of the tap.
The switch spring mechanism presses against the body of the tap in the off position.

So feed the new wires of the new switch through the little hole at the bottom of the tap where the old ones were. Then the switch needs to be pushed through the housing which holds the valve/Cartridge in place. The cartridge, then needs to be pushed back into place. No, the two holes match off the two small holes on the tap body.

The fixing ring, then needs to be put over the top of the cartridge, keeping the wires, surprisingly short as they will need to fit inside the tap head. There is a lug on the ring which goes towards the bottom of the tap.

The two blue inserts can then be pushed into place evenly around the inserted housing. You should be able to then put the three screws back into place. The screws will need a little push With the Allen key to get them down past the top of the fittings. Then you should be able to screw them down and should look as you found it when you first took it apart.

Then refitting the tap is the reverse of removal. It’s a little difficult to get the back nut back on as the rigid feed pipe gets in the way. But wiggle it about and persevere. It can be done.

Make sure you screw up the Jubilee clip very tight as you wouldn’t want water to come out when you turn the tap on.

Then reconnect the brown to the brown and the black to the black Wire. Put the fuse back in. And test the tap.

Check for leaks from the hose and tighten the Jubilee clip if needed.


My next thing for me to do is replace my thermostat on the fridge as the fridge is freezing everything on the lowest setting.

Good luck with the above if you choose to do it yourself.

It would be worth reading this a few times before starting!
Wow, thanks for the detailed description.
Can I ask you do one for the thermostat too?

Regards.
 
Having tried to use my tap for the first time this year (filled tank with water on Friday ahead of a trip away) only realised when on site that the tap, and shower aren’t running. So I’m guessing it’s the 10a fuse. Hope it is this and not the pump. Will report back in coming days.
 
Having tried to use my tap for the first time this year (filled tank with water on Friday ahead of a trip away) only realised when on site that the tap, and shower aren’t running. So I’m guessing it’s the 10a fuse. Hope it is this and not the pump. Will report back in coming days.
Could well be the pump, normally due to calcium build up. Soak it in an anti-calcium product over night then run some clear water through it. Works for me.
 
Could well be the pump, normally due to calcium build up. Soak it in an anti-calcium product over night then run some clear water through it. Works for me.
So where’s the pump physically located? How do i take it all out and soak it?
 
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So where’s the pump physically located? How do i take it all out and soak it?
Answering my own question now. Logically in the water tank lol. Ok. I’m going to check out the 10a fuse and report back tomorrow.
 
Ok didn’t need the pump out totally. I managed to give the impeller a few turns and with the shower switch on it kicked into life. Think it try some decalcifier in the tank and let it circulate a few days and clear out before restoring to full use.

No idea how you’d get the hose disconnected to replace the pump the hoses are connected with a kind of jubilee clip but they look like they are just tensioned on.

Anyhoo. Working again for now.

If anyone has the part number for the pump it’d be mucho appreciated.


Not sure if this is ok to use… seems to be ok for kettles etc so I’m thinking as long as I run a few tankfuls of water away it should be ok.

IMG_8083.jpeg
 
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I wouldn't do the whole tank. If you can't remove the pump can't you just drop a recipient with the descaler product in it into the empty tank and leave the pump in it over night?
Mine didn't have a clip, the hose was just pushed on.
Can you get a photo of the clip?

For a replacement pump, search for a Comet VIP 12v 16L / 0,6 bar pump or a Reich of simular specifications.
 
So here’s what I’m thinking regarding this water pump.

The clips that retain the hoses aren’t serviceable, so you have to basically wrestle it off or cut the hose.

You have to empty the water from the tank and somehow feed the electrical wire through the existing tube and secure the electrical connection. It looks incredibly fiddly and tight. I wonder if the supply hose which feed through the top of the water tank screws off and by this means you gain access to the pumps main hose outlet?

It looks to me that you need to replace the factory fitted “jubilee clips” with actual jubilee clips.

The pump seems to be a cheap item available online, the only really challenge is running the electrical cable through the tube and connecting the pumps output hose. This is a really tight space.

I’m just hoping my twiddling of the impeller has solved it for now.

If anyone has actually swapped out this water pump themselves please advise.

Again it looks easy but the challenge is having the space to fit the connections.
 
I wouldn't do the whole tank. If you can't remove the pump can't you just drop a recipient with the descaler product in it into the empty tank and leave the pump in it over night?

That is a good idea actually.

Mine didn't have a clip, the hose was just pushed on.
Can you get a photo of the clip?
It’s all packed up again but next time I have issues I’ll post the necessary pictures.
 

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